Wednesday 31 March 2010

Homage to Vermin

No blogs for the last while; this is mostly due to the fact that we've been busy for the last few weeks, and mostly staying overnight at trailheads in Arizona, far away from civilisation and internet connections.
Our time in Arizona has been divided between two places - Jack's Canyon, and 'The Pit' (a.k.a. 'Petite Verdon', which sounds a lot nicer). Both places are actually really beautiful limestone gorges, surrounded by pine forest and at an altitude of around 7,000 ft, either on high plains or in the mountains around Flagstaff.
Its been bitterly cold at night with temperatures down to -7C. But, the sun is so strong that when it hits the crags it's been T-shirt weather by 10am each day; or, "sun's out, guns out" weather as the locals say.
The cliffs are really nice in Arizona. Perhaps not world class, but as I've started to say a lot on this trip: "If these cliffs were in the UK they'd be the best...". You get the message.
Ruth and I have been climbing until our arms drop off most days, and the extra altitude in Arizona has definitely been helping on that front. So, we are starting to get fitter, which is very satisfying.
Most of the climbs in Arizona tend to be quite steep, and very powerful. One in particular that I was really pleased to get up is a pocketed wall called 'Energiser' at The Pit. I didn't quite get up it first go, and fell off a few metres from the top, which sounds quite impressive until you realise that the whole route is only 12m high. The reason I'm so pleased to have eventually climbed it, is that it was first put up by John 'Vermin' Sherman.
Climbing historians, those that know their climbing literature, and bouldering dweebs will all recognise the name 'Vermin' - he is a famous American climber, writer and photographer. Vermin was a bit of a teenage idol of mine back in the day, so it was great to do one of his routes.
The route Energiser is everything it should have been given its originator - a grossly undercut start, the first hold an undercut above your head, powerful and aggressive, with big dynamic moves all the way to chains. A perfect problem.
Vermin = Genius.
If any of you ever get the chance, and have the inclination, 'Energiser' is a fantastic little challenge, which is sure to amuse.
We are in Red Rocks now and racking the routes up. Eight days 'on' in a row, and a bit of a storm coming over mean it's a rest day today. We'll write another blog soon.
Innes

1 comment:

  1. hello,


    glad you clarified who Vermin is, it sounded like an odd title :). both me and stuart continue to be jealous of your holiday, so we are very glad that you are having a blast!

    we just came back from scotland, where we spent a day just outside Lochinver, fab! not many rocks to climb out there, apart from a peak called Suilvan which of course we did not even attempt to climb, it looked very nice and interesting looking at it from a distance, that and from stuart "it was a high risk of avalanche"! it snowed quite a lot while we were there so i guess the cold weather was in the UK at the same time. now spring finally arrived and this weekend we both got sunburned in a fantastic 18 degrees son digging out spuds in out allotment.

    oh, ruth in case you do not know Arsenal are out of the champions leage, lost against Barca rather badly. comiserations from Stuart.

    lots of love and take care both of you! Oh, ruth we hired two new staff members, a girl called Rachel and of course karin got emma's job. so all well at the unit, finalised the year very well, on all points and everyone is happy. no news about the contract, LSC keeps posponing the date of the announcement.....

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